When I was on my old CRT, most of the Doom screenshots I see people post on the internet are dark as f#@k.
But with my new LCD, I'm beginning to understand why people always say "it's not dark for me".
The problem though, is that in my opinion, the gamma looks washed out with LCDs. I remember being horrified the first time I played ZDoom software mode using an LCD. U-G-L-Y. I had to calibrate my LCD to resemble the gamma of my old CRT... :/
Downpour. The prologue to Submerged.
Don't get me wrong, LCD has its place -- mainly on portable devices where the lightweight and small screens made possible are very handy. However, they have issues that IMO outweigh any convenience created by their ease of movement, especially when such ease isn't even needed. (TV's, computer monitors, etc) Further, they cost twice as much for an inferior picture.
Yeah, lugging around my 40-pound monitor isn't fun, but seeing as how I've had to do it once in the past 8 months, I think I can live with that.
Yeah, lugging around my 40-pound monitor isn't fun, but seeing as how I've had to do it once in the past 8 months, I think I can live with that.
I have to move things around more often. Well... I don't HAVE to, but I try not to completely sleep through all my breaks from school. Even without that though, I would still prefer (a subset of) LCD to a CRT.
I know where you're coming from though. My older brother still uses his old, heavy CRT, his claims being much the same as yours.
I know where you're coming from though. My older brother still uses his old, heavy CRT, his claims being much the same as yours.
40lbs? Mine are 60 to 70lbs. And I have two of them. Heh.HotWax wrote:Yeah, lugging around my 40-pound monitor isn't fun, but seeing as how I've had to do it once in the past 8 months, I think I can live with that.
Anyway, completely agree. On color-critical applications, most LCD monitors just don't cut it. I'm amazed at how Apple sold their (especially early) LCDs to so many graphics professionals when the color varies from one side of the screen to the other just when sitting in front of it.
The newer screens are better. The 2.5" screen on my digital camera has a 170 degree viewing angle, and the color stays pretty consistent. But I still don't trust it to read accurately, I take my images off and always check on my calibrated CRT if they need color corrected.
I have one LCD monitor that I use which I like. It's in my server rack at work, because there wasn't enough space for a keyboard and mouse when we had a CRT back there.
I run dual calibrated CRTs both at home and at work, and I can say that your screenshots are fine.
Hotwax: It's entirely possible that your monitor is only 40lbs. Mine are very old; I've had them for several years, and I rescued them from the to-be-trashed pile so I don't even know their purchase date. The reason they were being trashed is that their connectors aren't SVGA, but instead 5 BNC. I had to special order cables to get them running. They are very heavy as far as monitors go (though still not as heavy as an old Mac monitor I had with large speakers built in). But they work, prodcue good color, and the price can't be beat, so I'm not complaining.
Shinjanji: There are a lot of options. If you're really serious about it, you'll have to invest in color calibration hardware. If you own Adobe software, using the included Adobe Gamma controls will give you a pretty good baseline, though not as accurate as dedicated hardware. The cheap hack way is to draw a black-to-white gradient in a paint program, and fiddle with your monitor controls until you can see the entire range and distinguish evenly among them, paying close attention to the darkest and lightest ends of the range. But the best thing you can do for any setup is control the light that enters the room. You can't expect consistent color when the ambient light of the room is changing, as it does quite dramatically in most rooms with windows.
Shinjanji: There are a lot of options. If you're really serious about it, you'll have to invest in color calibration hardware. If you own Adobe software, using the included Adobe Gamma controls will give you a pretty good baseline, though not as accurate as dedicated hardware. The cheap hack way is to draw a black-to-white gradient in a paint program, and fiddle with your monitor controls until you can see the entire range and distinguish evenly among them, paying close attention to the darkest and lightest ends of the range. But the best thing you can do for any setup is control the light that enters the room. You can't expect consistent color when the ambient light of the room is changing, as it does quite dramatically in most rooms with windows.
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Alterworldruler
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- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 7:31 am
