4thcharacter wrote:That setup makes me green with envy. I put the total price into some currency converter and it costs around 100,000 + around here. Jesus.
I'm going to work for 6 weeks and this should net me around 250 less than it's price, but I've savings to compensate.
PSU: Raidmax Hybrid 730W ATX12V/ EPS12V Power Supply RX-730SS - $59.99 on Amazon
CPU: Intel i5 3570k - $120 on eBay
Mobo: ASRock Z75 Pro3 - $54.95 on eBay
Case: Rosewill Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case Challenger S - $49.24 on Amazon
GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon Rx 470 4GB OC Edition - $169.99 on Amazon
HDD/SDD: Silicon Power S55 240GB 2.5" 7mm SATA III Internal Solid State Drive SP240GBSS3S55S25AE - $69.99 on Amazon
Heatsink/Fan: Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes RR-T4-18PK-R1 - $25 on Amazon
Wi-Fi card: TP-Link Wireless Dual Band PCI Express Adapter - $35.90 on Amazon
Total: $674.56
Granted, it's running much older hardware, but with some Type 44 thermal paste and some Ivy Bridge overclocking guides, I'm running a solid 4.2GHz at 65c on full load. Playing ARK on High, as Ultra really taxes the RX 470. Doom 2016 runs at 60 FPS 1080p. I don't really care about 4K, which the RX 470 just cannot handle. But, it beats paying ~$700 for a 1080ti... so far it's running everything I've thrown at it at 1080p at 60 FPS.
Also, I have a 3TB HDD for everything else. Windows 10 is on the SSD, and I'll probably never go back now with how much faster it is compared to a mechanical drive. I'd say if you were looking to save money though, I'd find an i5-6600k/motherboard bundle, or look into older gen Intel. The performance difference is not even a huge margin. The only limiting factor in buying older gen stuff is obviously the lack of current tech. It was tough finding a good motherboard with USB 3.0 AND a Z chipset for overclocking, while also giving me PCIe 3.0x16... Stay away from AMD unless you have an EXTREMELY limited budget. I just came from an Athlon X4 880k machine, clocked at 4.6GHz, and the i5-3570k blows it out of the water. The only contenders being the aging FX-8350 black edition, or the new Ryzen processors, which are just fantastic for the money. I am by all means NOT an Intel fanboy, but I can tell you that AMD is just not worth it unless you grab an FX-8350 or a Ryzen.
Good thing I'm getting a Ryzen, then! My GPU is just a 1080, not a TI, considering I only want 1440P/60 without VR, I don't need something THAT overpowered, just something I can overclock later on while saving for the third or fourth next gen.
Some people report that the GPU I've picked may have coil whine on one or more of its fans, some people don't say anything about it, some say it just sorts of stops.. No clue how to fix it if it happens, I guess it's something about the fan rotor or the blades?
Coil whine can happen when your FPS gets too high. For me, it's usually happened in menus and cutscenes, where the framerate gets into the thousands. I dunno about the 1080.
Always ALWAYS overclock a GPU. It's a free performance gain. There's almost no penalty in temps for it anymore, unless you're doing the extreme water block stuff lol.
My machine isn't very noisy, but I can see where coil whine would be pretty annoying. I guess it depends on what you can live with. Good luck building, and let us know how Ryzen works out!
R4L wrote:Always ALWAYS overclock a GPU. It's a free performance gain. There's almost no penalty in temps for it anymore, unless you're doing the extreme water block stuff lol.
There's a penalty in the life of the hardware, though - it tends to last a lot longer when you don't try to overheat it constantly.
R4L wrote:A couple degrees hotter won't really matter. It's worth the gain in performance.
"A couple of degrees hotter"...
Bad advice is bad, period.
If you run things in overclock, you're on your own, completely. Manufacturers advise against it, and with good reason. And a lot of that comes from years of professional research and experimentation and development. There is a reason why CPU's aren't really breaking past the 4GHz mark, yet.
Also keep in mind that some manufacturers even void your warranty for going above printed specs. That could be a problem down the line if something proves faulty and it wasn't your fault.
"Always ALWAYS overclock" is really really bad advice, seconding.
I've never had to OC a GPU in all my decades of computing. The performance gain here is overstated especially for the risk it causes (and video cards tend to put out much more heat as well)
CPUs on the other hand are much safer and tolerable for OC'ing these days. Even in the hot summer with decently average cooling you should be able to push past 4ghz. Of course you don't have to "always always" overclock.....
Maybe I was a little brash saying to always overclock. It's something to consider, but yeah I get the "voiding the warranty" part. I think I watch too much Linus Tech Tips... O_o
I don't plan on OCing my graphics card, at least not for a while. I'm going to use a 1440P*60 screen and a GTX1080 should be more than enough for my needs (considering I wouldn't play on full ultra, and ax useless eye candy like motion blur and excessive AA).
I was told that my Ryzen pick is easily clockable to 4ghz, though, but again, no intent on doing so until I feel the need for it.
I'm curious about overclocking RAM, if my Mobo supports up to 3200mhz and the RAM i get has this freq, I shouldn't push it any higher, right?
I really wouldn't. There isn't even a huge benefit to it, and can make things really unstable.
Also, take everything I've said previously with a grain of salt. I realize that not everyone wants to or even needs to overclock their hardware. I never considered the warranty part; seeing as how I bought my CPU on eBay. It's all about what you want to do, but what you decide to build should be good enough anyway.
If you're going to overclock your RAM, overclock the whole CPU / QPI / RAM etc. as one unit, and make sure you raise voltage correctly for stability. I have my CPU running at 4GHZ from 3.2GHZ for a few years now, but 1. I'm on liquid cooling, 2. I know the risks, 3. I've been doing this a long time, 4. I followed incredibly detailed instructions about my entire motherboard and what QPI speed should match what RAM speed etc.
Voltage is super important, too. Not because it gives "more juice" but because at the logic gate 1's and 0's are determined by voltage, (like many sensors in the engineering world), and you will end up with 1's read as 0's or vice versa. (Imagine opening and closing a bedroom door 10 times in 10 seconds, now as you overclock you increase the workload to 100 times in 10 seconds. You won't be able to do it, and you will probably end up not fully opening or closing the door in an attempt to make it work. Any time you didn't fully open or close the door you didn't actually get a 1 or 0 depending on threshold.) That's about as good an explanation as I can give.
Also, I'm 100% with Rachael on this. ONLY OVERCLOCK IF YOU ARE A RISK TAKER. There is measurable performance changes from good overclocking (a few frames on a GPU, faster rendering time for developers with a CPU overclock etc), but it's not like going from a Dodge Neon to a Ferrari. It's a hobby thing, and you do take risks and wear life out even with proper cooling. It's just simple engineering, the harder an object works, the faster it wears out. If you only run your engine at 2000RPM its entire life, it WILL be in better condition at 100,000 miles than if you redline a lot. Doesn't matter how clean your oil is. It's just math and physics.
But, it beats paying ~$700 for a 1080ti... so far it's running everything I've thrown at it at 1080p at 60 FPS.
